As Black History Month unfolds, it’s essential to recognize the consistent and enduring influence the Black community has had on the fashion industry. Despite many trends being attributed to Black designers, the origins often remain largely uncredited. From hoop earrings to flapper dresses, acrylic nails, and beyond, the Black community’s contributions to fashion have been both diverse and sustained.
Holly Alford, the Director of Inclusion and Equity for the Virginia Commonwealth University School of the Arts, provides valuable insights into the history of Black fashion in the United States. According to Alford, the roots of this influence can be traced back to the times of slavery, where enslaved individuals played a crucial role in weaving fabrics and managing dyeing processes, influencing the textile market in the United States.
The impact of the Harlem Renaissance in the 1920s on fashion is well-documented. Vogue magazine, a tastemaker of the era, drew inspiration from Black fashion trends, showcasing the significant influence of the Black community. Flapper dresses and zoot suits, iconic styles originating in the Black community during the 1920s, left an indelible mark on fashion, illustrating how clothing serves as a powerful form of expression.
Moving forward, Alford sheds light on the challenges faced by Black designers, such as Zelda Barbour Wynn Valdes, who often went uncredited for groundbreaking designs, including the Playboy bunny outfit. However, the 1960s brought about a shift, with designers like Ann Lowe gaining recognition for their contributions. The Civil Rights Era and the emergence of the Black Panthers further influenced fashion, introducing all-black and all-leather outfits, the dashiki, and afros, shaping both Black and high fashion.
Luxury fashion also saw a transformation in the ’60s and ’70s, with Ebony Magazine and The Ebony Fashion Fair Show playing pivotal roles in introducing the Black community to luxury styles. The Battle of Versailles in 1973 marked a turning point, showcasing Black models on the main stage and challenging the industry’s exclusionary practices.
Dapper Dan, a revolutionary Black designer, left an indelible mark in the ’80s and ’90s, utilizing monogram prints excessively. Despite facing legal challenges for using luxury logos without permission, Dapper Dan’s impact resonated, leading to collaborations with Gucci and even having his own store in Harlem today.
As we celebrate Black History Month, it is crucial to acknowledge the rich tapestry of Black fashion, woven through the centuries, and recognize the trailblazers who have shaped the industry, leaving an enduring legacy for generations to come.